This summer brings a new program to the Garment Center called, Sidewalk Catwalk.  Over 30 mannequins will be displayed between 34^th Street and Times Square, dressed by various local fashion designers.  The last few summers both Times Square to our north, and Herald Square to our south, have gotten make-overs becoming more pedestrian friendly with tables, chairs, planters, and all sorts of perks to appeal to both midtown workers and tourists alike.  However, as we’ve mentioned before our neighborhood, directly between these two hot-spots, has been overlooked but that will not be the case for 2010.

Many top designers will be included in this project like, Donna Karan, Michael Kors, John Bartlett, Tommy Hillfiger, Carmen Marc Valvo, and Diane Von Furstenberg.  One of many challenges these designers face, will be in using materials suitable for outdoor durability.  We are excited to see how the final project turns out, and have not doubt there will be loads of innovative pieces.  Another exciting aspect to the project is that besides established designers, students from both Parsons and FIT will have a chance to contribute their designs!

Bravo to the Fashion Center Business Improvement District for producing the event, as well as, to Macy’s and the NY Times for their sponsorship.  For those of you not working in the Garment District, make sure to stop by and check out the Sidewalk Catwalk on display from June 24^th to Sept 3^rd.

Well, it’s that time of year again; fashion week is almost upon us.  This is not just any fashion week however; it is the final showing at Bryant Park.   As we mentioned before here, the powers that be decided to move the shows out of the Garment Center and relocate uptown to Lincoln Center.  While many people equate fashion week with glamour and high-end design, it certainly does not start out that way for our little neck of the woods.  Rather, our poor little Bryant Park and the surrounding streets are a mess of construction, security, and equipment.  The sidewalks are overflowing with building materials and supplies, where as next week they will be filled with fashion models and celebrities.

So as fashion week approaches, how are our readers doing?  No doubt many of you are overworked trying to meet fashion week deadlines.  While others are rushing sample requests in before the factories close for Chinese New Year.  What about the shows, who are you excited to see?  What designer are you hoping will inspire you?  And, are you as sad as we are that fashion week will be leaving Bryant Park?

The New York Fashion Week shows begin this Thursday Feb. 11th and run through Thursday Feb. 18th. For a full schedule and the details please visit their site by clicking here.

Flickr image via Alicepopkorn

We have a few more tidbits of information on Mayor Bloomberg’s much anticipated Fashion Incubator initiative.  We gave you the full scoop on this project here when it was announced back in October.  The CFDA along with the New York City Economic Cooperation and our Mayor, have created this program to support emerging designers. We love the idea of creating a place that is literally an incubator of creativity. Plus, it’s set up in away that not only encourages the entrepreneurial spirit, but backs it up with concrete support systems.

More specifically, this program will financially aid up-and-coming designers who want to stay in the Garment Center and produce their good locally. Twelve lucky designers (and we made it clear in our previous post how we felt about that skimpy number) will get some much coveted studio space in the heart of the Garment Center.  The Fashion Incubator will be our neighbor, located at 209 West 38^th Street. So, what’s the unbelievably low rent at this location?  Amazingly, only $1500 a month, which is a dream come true for any young designer.  But it gets even better; the CFDA has just announced that they will also be providing mentoring to the Fashion Incubator designers. Having a top American designer as a mentor is a priceless advantage.

Of course, this kind of award is not available to just anyone with good fashion sense and a dream.  This is a huge economic and political investment for the city and the CFDA. This is a business proposal and not a Project Runway type contest, so designers must have a solid work history. To qualify, the designers need to have sustained their businesses for a minimum of 1.5 years, achieved media coverage, and worked with successful retailers as well as have a record of employing employees.  For the right candidate this is an excellent opportunity. Hopefully these twelve  designers will prove successful enough, that the program will continue and expand so more candidates of various levels can participate.

Really, did anyone think this was a good idea?  It’s like a bad nightmare; Ungaro the high fashion brand hires Lindsay Lohan as their designer.  Was anybody really surprised when Ungaro’s Paris fashion show became a disaster of epic proportions?  What did they expect from a girl who runs around town in ripped tights, grungy tank tops, bad roots, and no panties?  Or more to the point, what would any luxury brand be thinking hiring someone with no design experience, marketing maybe?  But really, even then, is the drugged out, rapidly ageing, wacktress who you want as the face of your brand?  Not shockingly the Ungaro Paris show was panned by critics and considered a total bomb.  To see the collection click here.

LiLo has told People Magazine that the Paris catastrophe is not her fault.  She said that she was still learning (um, duh) and that she was not given enough time to create a full collection (maybe less time at the clubs stalking your girlfriend and more time working).  As for the horrendously tacky nipple tassels, LiLo claims she knew nothing about them until the models were on the runway.  Hum, (obvious question) if you really are the designer didn’t you make those nipple tassels, order them, approve them , give them to the models, and see them backstage as you were preparing “your” show?  The most upsetting part of this story to us is that Ungaro is keeping her on to design next season’s collection!

How disturbing, when a D-list hot mess of a celebrity gets a fashion dream job, meanwhile hundreds of talented designers go unemployed.  In the midst of an economic recession why would any brand give a proven disaster a second chance?  So what do you think?  Should they fire LiLo?  Has Ungaro’s marketing move sullied their name?

Want to know what we really think about the whole celebrity designer movement? Click here.

This past fashion week we had the privilege of experiencing a variety of fashion industry events. This is the time of year to recognize the world of fashion and specifically its hardworking designers. Some, like the big name designers at the Bryant Park runway shows are gushed over by every media outlet, and others, like the design teams plugging away in the Garment Center for manufactures, retailers, and mainstream brands are often featured here on our little blog.  However, today we’d like to focus on the independent designers who are trying to build a label and succeed (often with little corporate backing but immense talent) in New York City.

First up, we visited the Garment Center installation featuring a collective of emerging NYC designers.  The show was called, Made in NYC: Past, Present, and Future. The lines of three local designers, Francoise Olivas, Gina De Silva, and Eva Khurshid (designs pictured in order above), all not only run their business from here, but pledged to continue producing their lines in the Garment Center.  We only wish we had been able to spend more time here but we were very impressed with the message, as well as, the pieces.  It was sad to see how tight the budget clearly was for this event and for designers in general in this city.  The show was rightfully held in an old factory loft in our neighborhood, with Anna Sui and Nanette Lepore donating display pieces. Still it was evident that they unfortunately did not receive the big corporate sponsors they really do deserve. Launching, running, and producing a clothing line in this city is no longer easily accessible, and bravo to these designers for doing it. Additionally we must mention that at the event, they screened a part of the new HBO documentary, SCHMATTA:Rags to Riches to Rags, which is a fascinating look at the history of manufacturing in the Garment Center. Check out the teaser for the movie…

We were also honored to be invited to a private studio showing of Christian Francis Roth’s new collection, for his francis line. Christian (pictured below playing with some new fabric) is another talented and innovative New York based designer whose studio is located in the heart of the Garment Center.  For you young-ins who may not remember, Christian was a huge star on the fashion scene in the 1990’s, and while in his early twenties he won the coveted CFDA “Perry Ellis Award for New Talent.”  Many of his pieces are considered classics and are on display at the Met’s Costume Institute.  Now he is back with his new eclectic and whimsical line, francis.

As we all too well know, in this industry, success is measured season by season, which makes it exceptionally hard for independent designers to compete. In this market, many of us have faced downsizing, company bankruptcies, cancelled lines and the outlook can feel bleak.  However, Christian’s new line was a welcome reminder that as times change, new and often better opportunities can arise. Often we learn and cut our teeth in the early years of our careers and come back smarter and wiser. Take a look at the francis line here and I think you’ll agree that Christian has really hit on something wonderful.

Check out the images of Christian’s studio below and you will see a far different experience than many of us have in the corporate world of fashion. No cavernous showrooms, suited sales teams, beige conference rooms or monotonous cubicles here. Yet, familiarly there are body forms in place, walls labeled with mood board themes for the collection, and sketches posted about.  There were also packages for China prepared, which makes Christian the perfect example of how many local designers find the expense to produce domestically too high for them to stay profitable. This situation is another reason to help support efforts being made to Save the Garment Center and make manufacturing affordable for our independent designers. And of course despite the fact that it was 8′oclock in the evening, no one blinked that people were still working on finishing product. For those of us who work in fashion, we know a 9-5 day is a fallacy.

Not only was meeting Christian and seeing his line a privilege but so was meeting up with several fabulous bloggers who we’ve been dying to meet like Midtown Girl, Jessica from What I Wore, and Alixrose.   So thank you to the lovely Wendy Brandes for setting up this event and making sure champagne flowed, as we all enjoyed the company. After a scrumptious meal, (sans Christian who of course was working away) we got to spend some time with Jennine of The Coveted, Jordana of Clutch 22 (pictured below with Wendy trying on a stunning plaid francis frock), the Fasshonaburu ladies and more. For more on this event check out the francis blog, which Wendy B is so kind to run as well

Here at 39thandBroadway.com we are thrilled to have so many readers who are professionals in the fashion industry.  However, we are also well aware that many of our dear readers are still on the path to the fashion world.  We’ve received many inquires regarding fashion school, interviewing for a job, and what it’s like starting at the bottom.  Recently, we featured a great post on fashion school and thought it would be helpful to take it to the next level and examining the role of an assistant designer.  We’re lucky enough that one of our readers, who had been recently laid-off from an assistant designer position at a mid-size apparel company, offered to share her day-to-day experience.  Enjoy!

My first job out of college was an underpaid one. I use to draw flats all day and write details for construction; basically make the packages and send them overseas to the factory to get samples. When we got boxes we’d check all the garments in by their numbers and start specing.  If they passed the spec, we’d have a final sample made and put in the showroom.  The sales team would then have their meetings with the buyers and try to get orders in.  I’d also make flats from pictures that the head designer pulled from the Internet and sometimes I’d get to play with the stitches, color combos, and bodies; slightly. It was a good experience if you separate the bad pay and the bad vibes from the owner.

The second job I had, I was a design assistant working on children’s sleepwear. I made patterns in Adobe Illustrator for art placement, submitted the art to the licensor for approval, made the changes they requested, and assisted the head designers of both the boys and girls teams with the art packs.  Then I and brought them to the technical design team, where they’d make the tech packs and send the lot off to the factories in Hong Kong. I’d also assist the technical designer by checking in her packages, specing the fit samples, and weighing the fabrics. I also made color cards each season for the team and factory, plus I would organize all samples.  Basically, anything the team needed done I’d do in regards to the actual work. I didn’t have to get anyone coffee or bagels; luckily. I really did enjoy working there and always had something to do, so I was never bored. Getting laid-off was rather unfortunate but I guess such is life.

When starting out in the fashion industry it can be hugely beneficial to start as an assistant for an apparel company.  Whether it’s a large manufacturer or a design house, you are cutting your teeth at someone else’s expense. It also is a tremendous opportunity to learn from the experts and make contacts that will be helpful for long term networking. Whether your end goal is your own line or to run the back of the house for Ann Taylor, starting off as an assistant or intern is an excellent first step. Our reader’s description is a very common example of an assistant’s daily grind (at least the way most of us recalled it) but there are others, depending on the company. An assistant designer can be a glorified receptionist, clothing steamer, and errand runner; or an assistant could actually be responsible for designing a company’s smaller line under some supervision. Really it all depends on where and for whom you work, and like anything in life you get out of it what you put in.

Have you ever dreamed of launching your own fashion line?  Or perhaps you’ve just launched a label but are wishing for a place to sell it?  With the high cost of rent in Manhattan, it is nearly impossible for up and coming designers to afford a showroom.  This is where Showroom NY steps in and offers a platform for budget conscience designers.

Showroom NY is supported by the Garment Industry Development Cooperation.  The GIDC is a nonprofit organization that has been working as the voice of apparel manufactures and workers for over 25 years.  We’ve written about them before and all their wonderful work in support of the Garment Center.  Showroom NY has only been around for about two years but they have grown a large presence on the fashion scene.

This space is a tremendous opportunity for indie designers to have a showroom presence in the Garment Center.  Showroom NY features a small rotating group of designers who, of course, produce their goods in New York.  For more information and to see their current collections please visit their website at showroomnewyork.org

Today we are thrilled to share an interview with the design team of Iyra Paboikina and Katya Patsukevich the lovely ladies behind the new label, Delirius.  They are local NYC designers who produce their sophisticated women’s line right here in New York. Inspired by the upbeat diversity and charm of New York City, Delirius strives to capture the fine line between elegance, sensuality and originality. The focus of the brand’s debut collection is comfort and individuality that translates well into the consumer’s lifestyle and works across all aspects of their wardrobe. To see more please visit their website.

1)  What made you both move from Belarus to New York City, and how have you adapted to it?  Belarus was and is a repressed former USSR country. New York was the complete opposite.  Here, we have complete freedom to indulge in both entrepreneurial and design experimentation. New York is certainly one of the most competitive cities to conduct business, and we have had to adapt to this atmosphere of risk-taking and determination.  We both love and enjoy it very much though.

2)  What advice would you give somebody looking to become a fashion designer, regarding education and experience?  Try to learn the trade while studying – compliment your design career with a “nuts and bolts” foundation. Intern with retailers and production companies, and see whether you understand and enjoy the whole process.

3)  What is the most difficult aspect in launching your own label, i.e. design, production, sales, finance, advertising?  Finance certainly, and differentiating oneself not so much by design, but rather clever PR. A lot of success seems to hinge on networking and publicity.

4)  What is the concept or brand direction for Delirius?  Delirius is a state of mind: excitement, escape, experiment, adventure.  Our girl is very chic and glamorous, but at the same time spontaneous and risqué. She is charming, fun and modern. She expresses herself through her image, always with a distinguished and unique look. She doesn’t settle for the ordinary or banal.

5)  You chose do produce your line domestically, specifically in NYC, why do you feel that is important?  It is primarily an issue of quality. We have control over the process chain, and an established group of trusted sub-contractors. We truly “see what we get,” and hardly ever have issues with workmanship. As members of the New York City fashion industry, it’s important for us to support our peers.

6)  As an indie brand, what is your position on the new Design Piracy Prohibition Act before congress?  Independent designers like ourselves do not have the resources to challenge big business if we were to be accused of copyright infringement. We are not a big established brand – such a suit could shut us down. We believe our designs stand out enough to hopefully avoid such issues.

7)  Is there anything you wish you had known before entering the fashion industry?  As we said earlier, design, quality and innovation don’t advertise themselves. Successful branding is essential.

8)  What are you excited about for style and trend going forward for Delirius? We seem to have gained some traction lately as we provide elegance and comfort for an array of age groups, which is very exciting.  We also hope to continue innovating, especially in our use of unusual fabrics and shapes. Beware, denim!

                                                                          images Scott Rudd

The Council of Fashion Designers of America handed out fashion’s big awards Monday. Called the Oscars of fashion, the event was held last night at Lincoln Center.  Fashions brightest and best turned out as well as plenty of celebs, all looking fabuluos.  Congratulations to all the talented winners!

WWD.com reported the winners:

Kate and Laura Mulleavy for Rodarte (pictured below) took home the Womenswear Designer of the Year Award; Scott Sternberg for Band of Outsiders and Italo Zucchelli for Calvin Klein Collectiontied for the Menswear Designer of the Year Award, and Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez for Proenza Schouler won Accessory Designer of the Year.

 The Swarovski awards for emerging talent, meanwhile, went to Alexander Wang for Womenswear, Tim Hamilton for Menswear and Justin Giunta for Subversive Jewelry for Accessory Design.

 Anna Sui was honored with the Geoffrey Beene Lifetime Achievement Award, and the International Award went to Marc Jacobs for his work at Louis Vuitton.

 First Lady Michelle Obama received the CFDA’s Board of Directors’ Special Tribute.

Yes, we’re talking piracy here, not like Somolian pirates more like, “Forever21 stop copying my shit” piracy.  That’s basically what designers everywhere have been saying for some time now.  The efforts by many fashion designers, along with the CFDA, have been pushing for the end to knockoffs.  Recently this movement to stop copycats has moved forward towards actual  legislation.  The bill called The Design Piracy Prohibition Act was brought before Congress last month.  Several designers including Jason Wu, Narciso Rodriguez, Maria Cornejo, and Thakoon Panichgul traveled to Washington DC to lobby in support of the bill.  

As we have discussed before, since fashion is clothing and legally considered a “useful article” it is not eligible for copyright protection.  This new bill would allow fashion designs copyright protection for a three year term.  We love the idea of putting a stop to all the blatant copycat designs out there; however we are a bit concerned as to what would be deemed infringement (So if I copyright a v-neck t shirt first, can I sue the GAP? Sweet!).  Part of this bill mandates that a searchable database of designs be maintained by the US Office of Copyrights.  Can you imagine all of the paperwork and red-tape involved every time you design a new style, just to insure you won’t be sued?  Or having to search a database of hundreds of thousands of designs to make sure that your original idea doesn’t look “legally” similar to someone else’s?  Still there’s definitely merit to the concept of this bill as Stephen Kolb executive director of the CFDA said, “Original design ideas are as much intellectual property to a designer as lyrics and notes are to a musician.  Without protection the very foundation of their business is at risk.”

One of the largest challenges in regulating fashion design is where to draw the line between “knocking off” versus “inspired by”.  Clearly, the “Louis Vuitton” and “Chanel bags” sold on Canal Street are blatant counterfeit pieces and are in fact illegal.  Should not, the ABS gowns that are lower priced knockoffs of designer red carpet gowns not be held to the same standard?  However, we strongly believe inspired by fashion should not be included in this category.  For example, not everyone can afford a $1800 Stella McCartney silk jumpsuit, but should H & M be penalized for doing a similar cotton jersey jumpsuit?  If an item is a hot trend, say this year’s jumpsuit, think of how many variations different brands and designers will come up with and in the process will unintentionally knock each other off.  This is most likely the reason the original bill did not pass in Congress last month.  Thankfully the bill has been revised and rephrased to “ban closely and substantially similar designs.”

One of the best things about the Design Piracy Prohibition Act is, it will put a stop to Forever 21’s blatant and excessive fashion thievery.  In the last 3 ½ years they have been faced with more than 50 copyright lawsuits.  Currently they are being sued by Anthropology for copyright infringement and it seems this time there is documented proof linking them to the purchasing of the infringed garments.  One of our regular contributors has her own story to share with us on this, “A few years ago, I was job hunting and replied to an ad for a fashion forward juniors designer. The interview went well and I got called back a second time.  At this point the VP explained to me they do a lot of designing and supplying for Charlotte Ruse and Forever 21.  They then asked, if I was okay with a lot of Europe and Far East travel, I asked how much is a lot?  They explained at least 2-3 weeks a month!  I must have looked confused and I thought, how could I get any designing done with so much travel?  They explained, their ‘designers’ would shop the NYC market then the European market and then would hand carry all shopping trip samples on a flight directly to their factories in China.  The designer would then stay in China to oversee the beginning of production!  So there was actually no designing, no sketching, and no techpacking.  It was straight up knocking off.  Needless to say, I left and never returned their calls again.”  Between Forever 21’s copycat fashion and their sweatshop factories, we implore our readers to stop shopping there.

Hopefully the newer and more liberal bill will pass in congress this time.  Designers need some form of copyright protection just like any other artist does.  Let us not forget that copying can work both ways as well.  Diane von Furstenberg, a strong advocate of this bill, was herself recently found guilty of this.  She just paid an undisclosed sum to the Canadian label Mercy, for knocking off one of their jackets.  Tighter regulations will help keep us all honest and we truly believe there is a feasible way to do this.  Europe’s fashion industry had similar regulations in place for years and is often the case perhaps we’re just a bit behind them!

**For more insider industry scoop and to share your thoughts on the fashion business please visit our forum**

As most of you are aware an item of clothing begins as an idea, a concept, a sketch.  All the steps and people required to take that design from concept to wearable garment is the real business of fashion.  So how does a drawing become an actual garment?  The answer is, the techpack.  The techpack is the fashion bible for every style.  A techpack is comprised of several elements and throughout its development it is often worked on by many different people.  Basically a techpack is: a detailed sketch, a spec, a construction page, graphics/artwork, trimming info, costing information and more.  Depending on the company, a techpack will contain every detail from thread color and supplier, to button price, to hanger style number, to wash labeling, just to name a few.  We were going to explain the technical details in creating a techpack or maybe the best software for efficient techpacking, but instead we got caught up in the emotion of techpacking.  (Also it’s been a long week of techpacking until 11 at night!)  So after a several cocktails, two of us each came up with our own, Ode to the Techpack.  So have a laugh(yes, they are ridiculous, but hey we’re designers not poets) and enjoy, and hopefully we’ll pull ourselves together in time for a more informative techpack post shortly.  

____________________________________________

There once was a techpack named SP101.
Who needed to finally be finished and done.
But the designer was so tired,
And wished she’d never been hired.
She was sad that her work had only just begun.

_______________________________________

Techpacks
Detailed, Sketches, Tedious, Specs
Giving the direction
Creating the product
Sucking the creativity out of me
Techpacks

_____________________________________________

         
                                                  steve eichner photo

New York designer Yeohlee is currently featured in a window display at 5^th Ave’s Lord & Taylor.  Yeohlee is a graduate of Parsons School of Design and renowned for her urban nomad aesthetic.  She is an award-winning designer whose clothing is even exhibited at the Met’s costume collection.  Besides her beautiful pieces, we love what Yeohlee is doing for the Garment Center.  She has made a concerted effort to keep her collections made in NYC, and in turn, help support the neighborhood’s manufacturing base.  The current Lord & Taylor window displays follow her theme “Made in NYC.”  Recently, the designer told Women’s Wear Daily, “The store is aware of my interest in protecting the future of the fashion industry, and they have a history of supporting American design.”  Not only does this label assist in saving the garment center, but it also appeals to our country’s desire for made in America products.  So on your next lunch break, do your part to support Yeohlee and stop by Lord & Taylor to check out her window then head inside and buy some fabulous new pieces for your summer wardrobe.

As many of you have heard by now, Lauren Conrad’s fashion line has been canceled (shocker), who could have seen that coming?  Yet another celebutante thinking that becoming a fashion designer would be a piece of cake.  The Hills star who barely designed the line herself, as we discussed here, is now getting a dose of reality and perhaps a swift kick to her reality star ass.  LC has tried to spin the story and claims she has just taken time off to rethink the line and will be back with an improved product.  So, we guess it’s just a coincidence that stores like Kitson and Bloomingdale’s reported dismal sales and along with other retailers had already decided to not reorder? Yeah, right!

One would think between, celebrity lines failing left and right and our current economic recession we would get a break from these kinds of endeavors.  But no, just as one celebrity line crashes and burns another rises from the ashes.  Gwyneth Paltrow has announced she will be designing her own collection for Fall 09’.  It’s bad enough that she narcissistically launched her own website Goop.com, a lifestyle blog teaching the average jane how to be more like her.  Now we can all shop, eat, worship, and workout like Gwyneth.  Who could ask for more? Well, Gwyneth will now be ”designing” a capsule collection for the French label ZOEtee.  Elle UK magazine is so very excited about this, they wrote, “With Gwyneth’s fashion credentials we’re expecting a luxe, sophisticated yet very wearable collection of instant hits.”  We’d like to know what freakin fashion credentials?  Does being a six foot tall skinny blonde, whose stylists can dress her well, replace actual design ability suddenly?  On we go with delusional celebs believing since they can afford to dress well and look good in clothes the next logical step is to launch a fashion line. So will this never ending cycle of celebrity fashion lines ever come to an end? And will it ever stop pissing us off?

                                                              image via Gizmodo.com

At China’s fashion week (yes they have one too) amid many lovely designs was one show that stood out from the rest.  Or perhaps we should say it surreally hovered above the rest.  According to reports the designer, Jiang Zhou was inspired by recent UFO sightings in the country.  The resulting collection is certainly out of this world.  It kind of combines an avant-garde ET meets Lady Gaga in bondage. What do you all think?

Wouldn’t it be nice if we all got a $1,000 for every item we designed, speced, and produced?  Okay, forget nice, it would be a miracle.  Well, Billabong is launching a new contest called the Love Project.  The surf brand wants you to take their T-shirt template and add your designs/graphics to it, then email your final product to LoveProject@billabong-usa.com by April 5th.  If they choose your design, you will win $1,000 and be featured in their runway show!  The contest is geared toward all artists and fashionistas and should really be a piece of cake for all you apparel industry professionals, especially you graphic designers out there!  For full details click here.