And we have a very not holiday spirited video for you all.  We have all seen the madness that is NYC sample sales, or the out of control lines for H&M’s designer diffusion lines, but our shoppers are tame compared to those crazed fashionistas across the pond. American Apparel held a rummage sale in London the other day and the people went absolutely mad. Check out the video of the insane Brits below!

We got the scoop about a design contest courtesy of Macy’s and the prize is a $500 gift card!  Just in time for spring shopping, this contest is awarding prizes everyday for the whole month. This will be a no-brainer contest for all our design professionals and our dear fashion blogger friends will excel in getting the voting numbers needed. So we encourage you all to check it out. Here’s more details from Macy’s:

Macy’s FASHION DIRECTOR DAILY FASHION CHALLENGE is a 30-day contest that lets fashionistas put it all together.  By mixing and matching the right pieces around a daily theme, participants get the chance to win a $500 gift card every day. The interactive outfit maker at lets you combine the season’s hottest fashions and accessories to style, shop, and share the perfect look. From putting together an outfit for a blind date to selecting the perfect look for a big work presentation, the challenges will mirror everyday situations, as well as special occasions.

Using the mix and match tool, participants can virtually select pieces to create unique outfits ideal for the challenge of the day.  Suggested pieces from Macy’s Spring 2010 collections will help those in need of guidance.

Are you up for the fashion challenge? Here is how it works –

• Build the perfect outfit by dragging pieces to the virtual canvas until you are satisfied with the look
• Once completed, click submit to enter your outfit into the voting gallery
• Share your look on Facebook and Twitter and invite your friends and family to vote for your outfit
• The outfit that gets the most votes each day will win that day’s challenge and a $500 Macy’s gift card

(Fashion Flashback – Originally posted on 2/19/09 –  It was just over a year ago when this article was originally posted, and we thought in honor of the recent Oscars and our popular new post on the fashion calendar,  it would be a good time to revisit a trend that is unfortunately thriving in the fashion industry. The below post should shed some facts on the issue of knocking off and you may want to click here for more details on the topic. It is certainly a fine line, between knocking-off somebody’s work, versus using high-end fashion as inspiration for affordable , trendy items for the masses.)

Being in the midst of award season and fashion week, we all are coveting the exquisite yet ridiculously expensive fashions on display.  While many of us cannot afford couture, we turn to more affordable brands to give us our fashion fix.  Although there is a grave difference between making style affordable to the masses, and straight up copying another designer’s product.  Many designers and brands have made a name for themselves by knocking off high-end designers.  Chief among them is the brand ABS, who quickly parades their red carpet Oscar knockoffs on morning shows across the country following the Academy Awards.  Recently, ABS and fashion label Faviana, débuted gowns inspired by Michelle Obama’s inaugural fashions on the Today Show.  Couture evening wear is not the only garment class being copied; actually every category is subject to copycats.  Stores like Forever 21 and H&M have made multimillion dollar businesses out of knocking off designer looks for less.

Many would argue, as we did here, that all fashion is in some sense copying from elsewhere.  Designers, high-end and low, all get inspiration from somewhere and are influenced by what they see in their daily lives, including from fashion rivals.  Next time you wander through a mall or department store, see if you can find a garment that is not in some way similar to an existing design; be it in color, fabric, silhouette, or overall aesthetic. But back to the original issue, what about those brands whose true intention is to knock off a particular item as close to the original as possible.  The most common question we get is, “is that even legal?”  In short, yes unfortunately, it is legal.

Unlike most products in the United States, fashion design is not protected by intellectual property law.  While your trademark is protected, like the Levi’s V embroidery, Lacoste’s alligator, or Louis Vuitton’s interlocking LV, the actual garment design is not.  Copyright law which protects most artistic works, has an exception for functional creations.  So, if your garment is wearable, which of course it is, then it is not protected by law.  There is some good news for you graphic designers, graphics like screen prints or original patterns do seem to be covered as artwork.  People will often remark, if you have a great design idea you should get a patent for it.  Unfortunately, patents only apply to completely new inventions, which as we mentioned above, fashion design is never completely original.  This is the reason for the Victoria’s Secret patent “pending” bra campaign.  Additionally, in the fast paced world of fashion, by the time the US patent office approved you, your design would no longer be on trend.  For more information on the issue of fashion copycats here is a great site counterfeitchic.com

Today we have a shopping treat from our dear friend, down the block, Tricia Lewis. Tricia works for the 34^th Street Partnership, a non-profit business improvement district that manages a 35-block area surrounding 34^th Street. She writes a blog, Fashion Herald, to promote retailers in the district and provide a resource for shoppers.  So many of you work in the neighborhood and know 34th Street is the place to shop around here, whether you have to run out at lunch to snag some make-up at Macy’s, stop by Banana Republic to pick up a shirt for your man, or mostly for all you designers, to trend research, check out competitors, and see how your products look on the racks. Well, there are lots of changes going on down the street and Tricia is going to fill us in!

It was great timing for 39^th & Broadway to ask me about new stores coming to 34^th Street in Midtown Manhattan, as there are so many upcoming changes that even I was getting confused!  It is, truly, turning into musical stores down there. Let’s talk 34^th Street between 5^th & 6^th Avenues, what is considered the prime block:

Aldo moved down 34^th Street next door to the new Geox store, in a brand new space at 29 W. 34th;

Aeropostale moved into the old Aldo space at 15 W. 34^th (Aeropostale also has a store just down 6^th Avenue in Manhattan Mall, and their new tween concept store, P.S. by Aeropostale, opened in Manhattan Mall last spring);

Spanish retailer Desigual is moving into the old Bakers Shoes space; (We are super excited about this one, if you haven’t been to their Soho store check out their website here and await their 34th Street opening)

Bakers Shoes is moving down the block on 34^th Street;

Korean retailer Who.A.U. is moving into the old Kira Plastinina space on the south side of the street;

An 18,000 Esprit flagship is opening soon at 21-25 W. 34^th next to Aldo and Geox; (So thrilled for Esprit – we are having 80’s grade school flashbacks already!)

Foot Locker is moving out, and an Original Levi’s store is moving in at 43 W. 34^th.

Bare Escentuals opened a new boutique last spring on the south side of 34^th Street, and don’t forget the addition of JCPenney in Manhattan Mall last summer.

There are fewer changes down the block: at the corner of 34^th & 7^th, Tourneau is moving out and Swarovski is moving in its new concept store, Crystal Source. But the future is full of exciting opportunities for 34^th between 7^th and 8^th Avenues. Older stores  (including two Conways), are moving out, and lots of space is opening up, which further fuels rumors of popular big retailers coming into the district. I could speculate, but let’s keep it to fantasy:  JCrew, Topshop, and American Apparel are just a few I’d love to see on 34^th Street. (Yes Tricia, lets make this happen! Also, anybody else wish we had a good restaurant around?)

Why so much growth and change, particularly in a down retail climate?  Mainly one major factor: pedestrian traffic. In the 34^th Street district, it’s huge.  Imagine, at our busiest corners, almost 9,000 people pass through during rush hour, and an estimated one million people pass through the district a day. Fifteen subway lines converge on the area that includes the Empire State Building, Macy’s Herald Square, Penn Station, and Madison Square Garden. You can imagine how attractive all this is to retailers: for example, the Gap at 34^th & Sixth is the largest volume store in the country

.

So yes, the reason why some of us New Yorkers are cursing while walking down Broadway and 34^th (maneuvering our way around crowds and tourists staring at the Empire State Building), is the same reason why retailers are eager to join the block. My recommendation? Walk down Broadway Boulevard and through pretty Herald and Greeley Squares, so then you can enjoy the ride!

Our thanks to Tricia for all the insider scoop and be sure to check out her fantastic blog, Fashion Herald!

]]> http://www.39thandbroadway.com/34th-street-evolution/feed/ 8 http://www.39thandbroadway.com/zac-posen-5th/ http://www.39thandbroadway.com/zac-posen-5th/#comments Fri, 26 Feb 2010 00:08:21 +0000 admins http://www.39thandbroadway.com/?p=4834

Finally, we can all afford some Zac Posen! Last night Zac launched his new lower priced line at Saks Fifth Avenue in NYC. The new line called Z Spoke (not crazy about the name, sounds like a new smart phone) is a women’s sportswear collection priced from $60 to $700. His goal was to make a line that is more accessible and affordable to the average woman than his runway collection. Part of that effort is in expanding his size range to include a size 16. “It’s a dream of my life to be able to make a collection that can work for so many different kinds of women,” he told New York Magazine. “This is about dressing America.” It is nice to see a designer embracing a diverse customer base, unlike our recent issues with Eileen Fisher who feels the opposite way as you can read here. Not to mention Zac’s design ability and taste level have not been watered down at all for this collection. What do you think; will you become a fan of his new line?

By the way for any of our readers who are looking for an internship and are Zac Posen fans, Zac Posen is currently looking for interns. So send your resumes here, Hr@zacposen.com

Our animosity towards Forever 21 has grown over the years, from a simple pet peeve to a burning hatred.  Online, particularly on  “what I’m wearing” type blogs there is a preponderance of fashion loving ladies sporting their Forever 21 gear.  It seems young fashion savvy shoppers online and off are continuing to favor our nemesis, Forever 21.  It is so hard, when we see a blogger, coworker, or friend bragging about their latest Forever 21 deal, to keep from screaming; “Do you have any idea who or what you are supporting?”  We’d hoped for awhile that the despicable chain would disappear, which has been the fate of many retailers this year.  However, it seems their evil plot of world domination is continuing.  Forever 21 has just announced plans to develop 30 massive department stores across the country, including one in Times Square replacing the Virgin Megastore.  So to make it perfectly clear why you should forgo F21 (if you must indulge in disposable fashion, H&M or even Target are better) here is a list of reasons to boycott Forever 21 forever!

1. Sweatshop labor in the US – Forever 21 has been running sweatshops in California and using Mexican immigrant labor in subpar working conditions to provide you with cheap disposable clothing. Especially for our LA readers, how can you in good conscious spend money on a product that forces fellow women to work in sweatshop conditions?  Several of these women have banded to together and created a must see documentary called “Made in LA”.  It is very easy to say “Oh yeah, it may be cheap labor but I can’t afford anything better” and thereby distancing yourself from the issue at hand but watching this documentary and seeing the faces behind your garments should open everyone’s eyes.  Additionally, Forever 21 has been taken to the California Supreme Court regarding its unfair labor practices repeatedly.  As one factory worker Guadalupe Hernandez explained she earned, “$4 per hour working 10 hours a day 6 days a week in a factory with no running water and no bathroom.” Clearly the cost of fast fashion is too high!
2. Sweatshop Labor overseas – As many are not aware, much of Forever 21’s products are not made in their own factories, but rather subcontracted out.  F21 finds third party manufactures who produce private label pieces (i.e. with Forever 21’s labels and hangtags) made in subcontracted overseas sweatshops to make the incredibly low price-point that F21 demands.  You see, Mexican/American sweatshop labor is far more expensive then that of Chinese, Cambodian, or Bangladeshi workers.  Forever 21 has repeatedly faced lawsuits regarding overseas sweatshop labor; however, they avoid the consequences by laying the blame on the third party contractors and deny any responsibilities.  Unfair labor practices, child labor, dangerous work environments and the exploitation of women are the true cost of that $12.99 sun dress you picked up.
3. Designer copyright infringement – We’ve written before about the legalities of protecting a designer’s original designs and what can and can’t be protected in fashion.  Unfortunately knockoff’s and thievery are common place in the fashion industry and if not always illegal they are at least unethical.  Please check out our full post here about being inspired by a high-end designers and creating an affordable versions vs. running a business based solely on direct copycats.  Bottom line, Forever 21 is the largest offender of creating knockoffs, be it upscale designers or struggling independent designers, F21 is in essence stealing their livelihood from them.  They have been taken to the US District Courts for their violations and have been sued over 50 times in the last 4 years alone for copyright infringement!
4. Proselytizing and shopping don’t mix – For those of you who are not aware, the owners of Forever 21 Mr. and Mrs. Chang are evangelical Christians and big supporters of Christian missionaries.  This, in and of itself, is not a big deal, however they have been accused of discriminating against employees and workers based on religion.  Mrs. Chang has been known to take young designers and send them on Christian missions and if they become “born again” they will be promoted and financially rewarded.  Have you ever looked at your Forever 21 packaging or shopping bags?  Those numbers printed on them are bible verses.  Frankly, we don’t need our tube tops and leggings preaching religion to us.

We encourage all of our readers to forward this post on to any of your friends, relatives, and coworkers, who perhaps shop Forever 21 and are unaware of their business practices. We encourage all of you to think about how you spend your buying dollar and support businesses that are deserving. Please check out the clip below from the documentary Made in LA.

In fashion school, we learned of the various types of customers, and one way we categorized them was by their attention to labels.  No, we don’t just mean which designer label they prefer, but rather which label or hang-tag they look at first and regard as most important.  Any idea which customer you are?

• For the majority of Americans the most important label is the price tag.  Many shoppers use the price tag as the sole deciding factor in purchasing an item (assuming, of course, they like the clothing in question) above all other labeling.
• Then there are those who look at the fabric content and care labels straight away.  Many of these customers, often mothers, will not buy clothing that is dry-clean only due to cost and inconvenience.  There are also customers in this category who prefer not to wear synthetic products or are environmentally conscious and prefer organic materials.
• Then there is the fashion savvy customer, who looks at the designer/brand label above all else.  This customer may prefer a designer name for the prestige and status that goes along with it. Or perhaps because this customer knows the quality and durability associated with a designer is superior or they are loyal to a brand that consistently fits their body type.

While one of these labels may hold greater importance to you then others, many of our fashion conscious readers likely consult all three.  Sadly, there is another label on all your garments that the vast majority of consumers never even glance at and that is, the label of origin.

This label, required on all garments, denotes the country of origin.  Simply, it is the label that tells you where the item was made.  It is long overdo for consumers to start paying attention to where the products they buy are made. It is, quite frankly, a moral issue in most cases. When you are snagging a great “deal” on a top from Target for $9.99 where do you thing that garment was made? And in what conditions? And more importantly, do you care? Unfortunately the answer to that is often a resounding, no. Most products at the local mall or certainly at mass retailers are made in China. The working conditions in these factories are often sub-par, the wages are sub-standard, and the exploitation of women and even children is not uncommon. Since many of our readers and the far greater majority of shoppers are women, the plight of the women who sew your clothes should, at the very least, cross your mind enough for you to make the effort to read the label of origin. Certainly, we cannot all afford to always buy “Made in the USA” but we can try. We can at least make the effort to think before we buy. If consumers start rewarding companies that are made domestically (or perhaps even overseas companies that practice fair trade and enforces child labor laws) we can make a difference.

Recently on a sales trip to the Midwest, one of our writers got into a chat with some buyers about their customers shopping habits. They discussed how this part of the country was particularly proud of anything made in the USA.  They bought American made cars, they supported all the local farmers, and um yeah, they all shopped at Walmart. It seems the “Made in America” concept is alive and well, as long as it doesn’t require making the effort to find the products (but with hundreds of domestic brands and designers it’s not that difficult, even at lower price-points) or shell out a few extra bucks to do so. These buyers explained most of their working and middle class customers preferred throw away fast fashion, or even shopped apparel in bulk i.e. Costco and Meijer’s. Perhaps, instead of buying more quantity, these customers would do better to buy less but in better quality, from domestic manufacturers.

Of course, some of these US made items will cost a bit more, but that is for a good reason. Our dear friend, designer, and blogger Wendy Brandes discussed this topic in a  recent post on her blog. She explains why she chooses to produce domestically and why it is worth it. Here is her take on the cost, ”U.S. labor is expensive because the U.S. has a high standard of living. People in ANY job — including you, unless you’ve taken a vow of poverty — want wages that allow them to maintain that high standard of living. Luckily for you bargain hunters, other countries don’t have such a high standard of living. People will work for very little. To be blunt and use the bad word: Cheap goods are made by cheap non-U.S. labor.”

Bottom line, we should care where our clothing is made and by whom.  The current recession illustrates even more why we, as Americans, should take notice. If we have learned anything from the recent economic collapse, from the failing auto industry’s illumination on the lack of American manufacturing and jobs, from the rampant unemployment due to out-sourcing, to our abhorrent dependence on foreign oil and more, it is that we have gone from a self sufficient country that made things, to an indebted country that is dependent on foreign goods. The very least we can do as consumers is to check the labels of the products we buy and try, to support our own disappearing manufacturing base. We do it when we select wine, we check where our fish come from, we consider it when we buy a car, we notice it in our movies, we are now acutely aware of it when buying children’s toys, we debate it with our elected officials, so why not with our apparel? Of course not everything in your closet will be made domestically, but the simple act of checking the label and being aware before you make a purchase can subtly change the buying process. So we challenge all our readers, as a New Years resolution, don’t buy anything without first checking the label and try, whenever possible, to buy domestically.

While the Garment Center is the heart of the fashion industry, it is hardly a shopping mecca.  In fact, from a retail prospective we are pretty much bare bones around here.  When you want to run out at lunch for some quick shopping, 34^th street is your best bet.  There are a few exceptions of course like Meridian or Alice + Olivia.  So we were pleased to hear of a new boutique in the neighborhood called, Coup de Coeur.

This quaint, little boutique specializes in fashion forward women’s wear at affordable prices.  Additionally, they offer a full range of unique accessories from jewelry to handbags.  Located on 6^th Ave between 38^th and 39^th we definitely recommend that you pop in and check it out.

How did you get into fashion blogging? What made you take your site from a blog to a full online store?
The idea of Brook&Lyn boutique started loosely about two years ago. I was working as a graphic designer, but never found it as interesting as fashion. I first wanted to start a local Brooklyn fashion zine called “Brook&Lyn”. A play on words where two girls names made up the word Brooklyn. It was originally suppose to be a two sided zine where culture and fashion would merge. But due to a lack of financial backing, that idea was put on hold. I chose to start a blog as a cheaper alternative. My blog started mostly with shopping recommendations, but like most other blogs, my outfits and DIY projects got the most hits. Naturally its turned into a personal style blog. After months of diligently blogging, I decided to sell on my blog a pair of new Nina Ricci boots that I had bought in the wrong size. It sold within the first hour I posted. Naturally, my head started spinning to see what other items I can possibly start selling. But I wanted to do it right, which meant having an official Boutique site, with the best images and styling I could produce. It took about six months to launch Brook&Lyn Boutique from that point on. As of now Brook&Lyn Boutique is comprised of women’s new, preloved and vintage clothing, jewelry, shoes and more!

How do you choose your merchandise? Tell us a bit about how your shop works?
The boutique is a direct reflection of my evolving personal style. If I can’t see myself wearing it you won’t see it on my site. I’m not a huge trend follower, don’t get me wrong there are always a couple items every season that I fall in love with but there is nothing that’s really “trendy” about my boutique. As I get older I find myself drawn to more and more unusual things that I can really make it my own. People are constantly asking me what kind of style my boutique carries. There is no set style. It’s not a place you go to look for something specific you have in mind. You go on to find yourself surprisingly drawn to something that you couldn’t have even imagine existed.

Also like any average girl I like my bargains. When I find something special at a great price it makes my whole day! This is a side track but when I was a teenager my father use to take me on these massive week shopping sprees (divorce guilt) and at the end of the week I would grow numb to the new items I acquired. If you can buy everything then nothing is special. I don’t expect my customers to buy something every week, but to be able to treat themselves once in a while with something truly unique and not blow hundreds of dollars doing it. I gage my prices with what I would personally consider a good deal. My accountant would be furious to hear this  but this is the only way I know how to create something that makes sense to me.

What is in the future for Brook&Lyn.com?
I’m constantly thinking of ways to improve the boutique. Right now I’m working on a small jewelry line that I hope will be ready in a couple of months. From there I would love to create a small women’s clothing collection. I have a ton of clothes I get custom made so this really got my wheels turning. Also I’m in the process of persuading my husband (who constantly says he doesn’t have good enough taste but really does) to collaborate on a men’s line. If all goes well then I would be ready to invite a couple of designers both local and international that I’m a big fan of.

What your favorite new splurge for Fall/Winter?
I’m not sure yet. But I think it might either be a few custom made pants or some crazy too-high-to-walk killer heels.

So make sure to check out Brook&Lyn’s blog as well as her online shop and support a local NYC fashionista.

Can’t wait for the weekend? Here are some NYC events to add to your fashion calendar, now.

The Flip Fashion, Not Humanity Charity Sale
Buy some luxurious jewels from designers like Pamela Love, Bijiules, Lovemade and more.  Plus a percentage of proceeds go to the Keep a Child Alive Organization. Today until 10pm at the The Library, Soho House, 29-35 Ninth Ave., b/t 13th & 14th Sts.

The Manhattan Vintage Clothing Show
This is a must see for any design professional. More than 75 vintage-clothing and antique-textile dealers will be selling vintage clothes. It’s a great opportunity to get some fantastic design ideas and inspiration as well as fill your closet with some unique goodies! Starting tomorrow and through Saturday at the Metropolitan Pavilion, 125 W. 18th St., nr. Sixth Ave.

Final Sample Sale at The Fifth on Main
The pop-up store is running this huge sample sale all weekend. They are offering up to 70 percent off designers like Cynthia Rowley, Badgley Mischka, Nicholas K, and many more. Register online at the Fifth on Main e-commerce site and receive an additional 15 percent off. 421 W. Broadway, nr. Prince St.

Thankfully there are some who believe in the success of the New York fashion industry and are actually helping support emerging designers.  An excellent example of this is Lisa Weiss, owner of Début.  Début, on Mulberry Street, is a unique gallery-esque clothing shop.  Lisa opened Début after seeing how young designers struggled with the exorbitant costs of developing a clothing line in NYC.  As a former FIT student, she knew the challenge as well and saw the need for a platform in which emerging designers with small collections would be welcome. She has also worked closely with Parsons School of Design in showcases their students work. We were lucky enough to attend a fashion week meet-up hosted by the lovely Dream Sequins at Début yesterday. We saw an eclectic mix of innovative designs from designers across the globe and were thoroughly impressed with the concept as well as the diverse product. Check out some photos below, we particularly loved the cocktail dress embellished with zipper teeth by Aminaka Wilmont.

We were rather surprised to see Barneys New York’s latest window display, as pictured above.   The window was a scene right out of a gory horror flick, though it did appeal a bit to our morbid sensibilities.  Blood splattered mannequins in couture dresses fighting off attackers was a bold statement, but apparently this display crossed the line according to Barneys creative director Simon Doonan. Its seems Simon was out of town when an employee designed the window and put it up without his approval.  Before you rush off to check out this macabre display, be aware that the display was promptly removed when Simon arrived back in town.  We get that the window may not have been child appropriate and God knows Barneys doesn’t want to scare off any tourists, but in the name of free expression we were saddened to see it removed so quickly.  Oh yeah, this reminded us, Dexter is coming back in September!

So what’s a shoeaholic to do when an economic recession has left her pocketbook dry?  Well, the shoe gods have been listening and miracle of miracles, Jimmy Choo will now be affordable for you.  All you need to do is hold out until November which is when H & M will début their exclusive line designed by Jimmy Choo himself.  Not only will there be shoes galore but the collection will also include handbags, accessories, and even clothing.  Now what to pray for next, Manolos for Target, or Louboutin at Topshop?

The nonprofit organization, Beauty Without Irony launched the international project, Designers Against AIDS in 2004 to help raise awareness about the disease.  If you have not heard of the DAA you really must check out their website at www.designersagainstaids.com.  Their goal has been to raise awareness especially in young people by using celebrities from movies, sports, music, and design.  Recently, singer Katy Perry has added her support to the DAA.  She helped design a rather unusual bodysuit (pictured above in one of our city’s gazillion H&M billboards) and is posing in it for the campaign.  The bodysuit features a print of human organs with the text “It’s what on the inside that counts.” The idea is to promote self-awareness of our bodies, inside and out.  Katy’s designs along with several other celebrities are being sold at H&M’s Divided departments. The proceeds go to the Designers Against AIDS organization to raise HIV/AIDS awareness.

                
                                                     image via Refinery 29

If you haven’t heard, last Friday launched the beginning of the “Save Fashion” sample sale in Port Authority.  Yes, that Port Authority, aka the bus terminal, at 41^st and 8^th Ave.  Refinery 29, along with New York’s Port Authority is bringing you the mother of all sample sales lasting through out the month of May.  You’ll be able to save 50% and more off designers like Helmut Lang, Alice Ritter, Charlotte Ronson, Gryson, Earnest Sewn, and many more. Throughout the month new stock as well as new designers will be brought in, so be sure to check back repeatedly.  We have already spotted some fabulous treats and are super excited about the new and fashionable direction the Port Authority continues to take this year.