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Denim Disaster?
By admins | May 10, 2010
Has the era of designer denim come to an end? Did the recession put the final nail in the coffin for the already struggling denim industry? For many, the answer is clearly yes. The high point of designer denim (not counting the 80’s of course) was 2002-2007. We saw the emergence and rise in popularity of brands like James, Paige, Citizens of Humanity, Joe’s, True Religion, and many more that are still in business to day. There was also the quick rise and fall of brands like Von Dutch and Paper Denim & Cloth. Some brands floundered and fought to stay alive for far too long, like Earl Jeans who was bought out by Nautica, then VF Corporation, and now by Jordache. Others found success by selling out to big corporations and launching their own lower priced lines like, Seven Jeans or Lucky Brand. And others struggled through the rise and fall only to succumb to our tough economic times, as is the case with the recent bankruptcy filing of Rock and Republic.
Now that designer denim has lost some of its luster, and with so many brands over-saturating the market (many offering affordable versions of their own designer lines) customers are turning away. For many fashionistas paying over $200 for a pair of jeans seems a bit absurd these days. Not to mention most denim divas, who will pay any amount for a good fitting pair of jeans, already have closets full of jeans in every wash and fit a girl could want. Plus, we can’t ignore the elephant in the room, or shall we say, leggings. The rise of leggings and other knit bottoms have significantly cut into the denim business over the last few years.
But the biggest challenge to the denim market is that denim (even designer denim) has become a wardrobe staple. Most fashionistas own at least one splurge pair of high-end denim in their wardrobe and countless other affordable and moderate brands as well. Designer denim has lost its novelty; it is no longer a unique “must have” item. The phrase “Japanese Denim Mill” used to fill any denim guru’s heart with desire and now, it just, “oh another Japanese denim brand, what’s new?” Jeans will likely always stay on trend and they will certainly continue to sell, but anyone who works in denim knows the profits and order numbers have shrunken considerably since the early 2000’s. Despite the resurgence of the jean jacket and the double denim trend, sadly the denim market is just not what it was. Denim manufacturers are going out of business, denim fabric mills are closing up shop and the market is flooded with denim designers looking for work. While the average consumer may not notice a huge difference at their local retailer the impact on the business side is undeniable.
So what do you think, will designer denim make a comeback anytime soon? Will denim brands continue to go belly up? Do you have plans to buy more denim this season? Are there any denim brands that you are particularly excited about?
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Topics: fashion, trend | 21 Comments » 
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May 11th, 2010 at 5:37 pm
I think the strongest brands will survive. With many holding tightly to their wallets, attentions will turn toward those brands with the best reputation and cuts. I don’t think there will be the oversaturation there was a few years back, but I don’t think this is the last we’ve seen of premium denim.
May 11th, 2010 at 9:30 pm
It is SO rough in the denim world right now. I’ve worked in denim as a designer and wash consultant and the market has totally tanked. Every aspect of the business has been hit and for me it means unemployment :-(
Personally I blame leggings. Those bastards!
May 12th, 2010 at 12:06 am
Earl was a leader, wasn’t it? I remember having a pair in 2000. People teased me for wearing a dark wash.
May 13th, 2010 at 2:03 pm
I just cleaned house at a Gray Ant moving sample sale .. so i will not be making any denim purchases for a long long time!
May 13th, 2010 at 4:20 pm
It’s really interesting that the Denim Industry isn’t doing well as it seems that Denim is making a comeback, at least on the blogs. I think the problem is just that it’s over saturated. Too many brands tried to jump on the bandwagon when Denim was hot. I think it’ll make a comeback tho, everything does.
May 13th, 2010 at 6:49 pm
I think a big part of why designer denim has lost its luster also has to do with consumer tastes and preferences. When the recession began, a lot of magazines declared it gauche to be decked out in labels and recognizable brands and proclaimed the return of “quiet luxury”–quality items that don’t scream “brand name” but make the wearer feel really good about what they’re donning. A big part of designer denim’s cachet was in being recognizable from a mile away; the example of each brand having signature back pocket embroideries (i.e. True Religion) comes to mind. Maybe people’s tastes are moving away from that and towards simpler styles and washes, and when all you need is a good pair of dark wash skinnies with no ostentatious branding, well, of course you’d consider lower-priced alternatives too.
May 13th, 2010 at 8:16 pm
I still love designer denim and I just bought a pair of David Khans last month. However, I only buy about 2 pairs of jeans a year so I am hardly holding up the denim industry. It still appeals to me, though. Leggings are not as, shall we say, forgiving.
May 13th, 2010 at 8:29 pm
I think that some brands will stay strong… and those are the ones who know what their users want and need. Those who are interested solely in profit, celebrity and trend will suffer.
But I don’t think that Designer Denim is dead. Quality denim – brands like DL1961, J Brand, Earnest Sewn, Naem and more will come through because they know what their users want.
May 14th, 2010 at 1:45 pm
I’ve been in the denim business a loooong time and things are BAD! and it still surprises me how people, even avid shoppers or fashion bloggers have no clue about the actual industry.
@Jaime- All denim is suffering and I have worked with Earnst Sewn, they laid off half their staff last year, it was widely covered in WWD and others, and they don’t seem to be doing much better now. As for J Brand, really? They are having such financial issues they sold majority share of their company to Star Ave Capital group under my old Jones Apparel boss. Just because you see things in stores or in magazines doesn’t mean business is good!
May 14th, 2010 at 6:04 pm
Unless there’s another true shift in style in the near future, I think it will take a while for denim to make a full comeback (almost every trend will in time). I’m thinking maybe an extreme bell bottom, like some of the suit trousers on the Fall 2010 runway would be fun! Whatever the style, I have one request: make me TALL!
May 16th, 2010 at 7:19 am
wow. i had no idea. i totally remember sporting my earls back in the mid 90’s. it seems to me that was when denim really started to become fashionable again. this is sad, i can’t see going without jeans for more than a few days. i love my denim!
xxx
t
May 16th, 2010 at 5:06 pm
Denim has been falling off the chart, however, it’s a staple in the closets of everyone! People still have their denim jackets from the 80’s or early 90’s. Good Denim will last whether it is designer or the alternative version. Great post!
May 18th, 2010 at 9:22 pm
I totally agree that the market got saturated, and there is an inherent limit: how many jeans will a typical shopper buy? I’ve got 8-10 pairs and I wouldn’t get another pair for a while, and I’m a total jeans girl. How can a business survive in a market already flooded with a product that has a long shelf life? Tough one. And then there’s a recession. Although I remember reading recently that paper denim cloth is being revived?
May 19th, 2010 at 10:35 pm
I’m definitely no fashionista here, but I’ve never really understood designer denim. Dresses, skirts, even things like tights and t-shirts, but jeans have always been the ‘buy a pair that is comfortable in a cut that you like’ thing. I’ve never understood when people point out to me that their jeans have red stitching and that makes them better than mine–I always feel like, yes they may have jeans with red stitching, but they COULD have had three hundred dollars instead.
June 4th, 2010 at 12:09 pm
I have over 60 pairs of jeans…yes i was shocked also. every wash, every pocket, almost every brand. i love jeans, but so many, i don’ tthink i’ll be buying anymore anytime soon. They could last me the rest of my live :/
September 5th, 2010 at 8:51 pm
I probably own 15 pairs of jeans in different washes and lengths and cuts. Unlike a pattered shirt, you don’t get tired of a pair of jeans. But a big part of the issue, recession or not, is that one of the key reasons premium denim became so huge was the crap fit of most mainstream jeans in the past.
High-waist pants weren’t a style – it was the default design of jeans, and it wasn’t flattering! The deluge of premium, body-friendly denim that we saw a trickle-down effect where cheap jeans eventually got a makeover and became wearable. I was in Target yesterday, and their Merona store brand has SIX different fits now! Unheard of ten years ago.
Now to that point, consider my two favorite pairs: One pair is from Old Navy and cost $20, and the other are Calvin Kleins that cost $80. They both are soft and comfortable, flattering, and wash well. I always drip-dry to avoid the damaging heat, so the only time I have to buy new jeans is if I literally wear holes in them. If they both last for years, and I’m not a label wh*re, why spend the extra $60 anymore?
September 21st, 2010 at 6:51 am
denim fashion will always be there, its gonna stay for good!
April 25th, 2011 at 5:33 am
Onteresting… Thanks!
http://www.moitristana.com
http://www.moitristana.com
May 20th, 2011 at 10:07 pm
Miss Me jeans are super popular where I’m from right now(Texas) and have been for quite some time!
June 24th, 2011 at 8:56 am
Hopefully the brands that are synonymous with quality, well-fitted jeans will stay afloat. Perhaps $200 is a bit much for a pair of denim, however, everyone can appreciate that one pair of jeans that fits like a glove and looks good with everything.
“The difference between style and fashion is quality.”-Georgio Armani…that being said, quality denim will likely reign in the long run.
September 1st, 2011 at 10:13 pm
It all about supre here in Australia.
They are pretty shite as well.