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Fashion’s Ultimate Dilemma
By admins | December 6, 2009
Flickr image via erix!
Please enjoy the following post on the state of employment, in the NYC fashion industry from designer Stacy Lomman. If you haven’t read Stacy’s dramatic story of slaving away as a designer and then getting laid off at a local apparel company please click here. Here is part two of Stacy’s post, enjoy!
Are New York designers a dying breed? Will we see the day when everything is mass marketed and made in either China or India? Does quality count for anything or is the American consumer only concerned about cost? Has “disposable clothing” really become the mainstay in this country? These are just some of the thoughts that filled my head after I lost my job as a sweater designer recently. I had been working like a slave for a Chinese owned company and I admit that we copied far more than we created. I don’t know why I even bothered with yarn, trend and color research. I wasted countless hours working out specs and details for my own creations while our sales team shopped Macy’s and presented other companies product to their buyers. Yes, it’s sickening. They actually removed the labels from the garments and had ours sewn in, pretending that our factory actually made them. It’s no wonder the industry is nearly obsolete. As I mentioned in my article last week, the production in New York has decreased from 50% in 1995 to only 5% today.
When I found out about the rally to save the garment center back in October, I was all too happy to attend. I listened to Manhattan Borough President, Scott Stringer’s zealous speech – I was energized. Speaker of the City Council, Christine Quinn spoke with conviction. Factory owners spoke from the heart. I was touched. Other important industry figures to step up to the podium included; Fern Mallis, Yeohlee, Nanette Lepore, Simon Collins (Dean of Fashion at Parsons) and Mickey Boardman of Paper Magazine. Finally, somebody has taken action, I thought. The rally happened to take place the same week that the film “Schmatta: Rags to Riches to Rags” debuted on HBO. Garment industry veteran and former cutter, Joey Raico said in the HBO documentary, “The garment center was once the biggest employer in New York City and now we are losing blue collar jobs and white collar jobs. We are giving it all away.” I saw Joey speak with the same determination at the rally to save the garment center, held October 21st. I applaud Nanette Lepore, Robert Savage, the CFDA and the many other contributors for their passion, drive and concern in organizing www.savethegarmentcenter.org. I was inspired by the feeling of unity in the atmosphere. “Stop exporting the American dream!” yelled Roger Cohen of Regal Originals (one of the first factories to work with Nanette Lepore). Everyone cheered. Roger also said my favorite quote of the day… “Does it make sense that Broadway has become a park for pedestrians?” No, it doesn’t. In fact, it’s kind of bizarre. While I completely agree that something must be done regarding the garment center’s zoning laws and rents in order to bring production back to New York, I also believe that we need to protect the creative jobs in the industry as well. Larry Geffner, President of Vogue Too factory said at the rally, “Without the companies in the garment center that provide all the skill sets and materials that the designers need to function, we will ultimately lose the American designer and it’s no joke.” My eyes welled up. I thought about the predicament I’m currently facing. I thought about Maryanne Dimatteo, a print designer who starred in the HBO documentary. “I have not found work in a year,” she said. “I will not have an apartment anymore because for the first time in my life, I will not be able to pay my rent. I desperately need work.” I whole heartily feel her pain.
So, what can be done to protect designers? Unfortunately, it’s not the norm for creative professionals to receive a contract when we accept a position. Therefore, we have no security and can be let go based on a mood swing or jealousy or because one prefers to wear only neutral colors. There is a large representation of designers in the garment center who do not have their own labels. Instead, we are employees within companies that create apparel in a range of categories and price points. Why don’t we have contracts or agreements? We should. We should also have realistic job expectations and valid grounds for dismissal. Lately, companies are saving money by cutting the number of employees, therefore, the role of the creative designer has expanded and we are expected to perform the work of three or four people. Many establishments do not have a Human Resource Department to protect employee rights, to problem solve and mediate and to prevent abuse. I did not lose my job because I wasn’t capable of doing the work and I do not for a minute doubt my abilities. I knew what I was getting into when I accepted the position, but I was desperate. I was overqualified and underpaid, but I needed a job. A girl’s gotta pay her rent!
Prior to my “Year of the Dragon” as I refer to it, I had been working as the design director for a bridge sportswear company. One day, after two and a half years, I was informed that the owners in Hong Kong wanted to downsize the design department in New York and I was let go along with the Senior Merchandiser. At this time, I noticed a major shift in the industry. I can remember when the Help Wanted section in WWD covered at least two pages. Suddenly, it had dwindled to a quarter of a page which comprised of a few sales positions, showrooms for rent and advertisements for recruiting agencies. Weeks and weeks stretched by and I didn’t see any ads for designers apart from a Childrenswear position or two. I contacted and met with every head hunter in the game. I heard nothing. The silence was deafening. It took me nearly a year to find the job that I just recently lost and now I am starting over again. After hearing my colleagues in the film discuss the difficulties they are experiencing in their search for employment, I’m not exactly feeling hopeful. But, I’m keeping my fingers crossed that 2010 holds in store some positive changes for this struggling industry. To find out more, please check out www.savethegarmentcenter.org
Stacy Lomman designs for private clients, and if you are interested in contacting Stacy please email her at tamarastacy@aol.com. She also sits on the publications committee for The Fashion Group and is a contributing writer toLookonline.com
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Topics: designer, fashion industry | 6 Comments » 
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December 6th, 2009 at 1:25 pm
Lack of job security is the number one problem as far as I’m concerned. Why don’t we have contracts, unions, hr, etc…it’s total bullshit! but unfortunately its also supply and demand, as long as there are more and more people coming here who want to work in fashion the companies have the upper hand and they know it. that’s why there are so many unpaid internships these day. So many people want in and some are literally willing to work for free. It so freaking depressing!
good luck on the job hunt stacy.
December 7th, 2009 at 3:41 am
“and can be let go based on a mood swing or jealousy or because one prefers to wear only neutral colors.” Totally scary as hell…
And I remember Dimatteo from the documentary. It was so awful to hear her story about working so hard for sooo many years and now, not even being able to know if she can afford to live here anymore?
I hope things work out for you Stacy and that it gets better in 2010. Something needs to be done to protect the rights & growth of the employee.
December 7th, 2009 at 12:09 pm
I was touched by the documentary as well.
As for the working conditions we are all stuck with, they are so depressing and just kill the creative spirit. When designers are treated this way the result is the uninspired crap you see in every mall today, because really how are we even suppose to care anymore.
Now design gets maybe 5% of my time after spreadsheets and meetings and checking and rechecking production details, so not right!!!!!
December 7th, 2009 at 8:18 pm
This is such a sad occurance….. will check out the links.
December 8th, 2009 at 2:23 am
So glad that you are doing your part to spread the word about the trouble the garment district (and entire fashion industry) is in. And I really do hope that things will turn around in 2010.
December 9th, 2009 at 2:16 am
I think we need to start a new business together!