Loading ...
« NY Fashion Week Wrap-up | Home | Links à la Mode »
The Modern Face of NYC Designers
By admins | September 18, 2009
This past fashion week we had the privilege of experiencing a variety of fashion industry events. This is the time of year to recognize the world of fashion and specifically its hardworking designers. Some, like the big name designers at the Bryant Park runway shows are gushed over by every media outlet, and others, like the design teams plugging away in the Garment Center for manufactures, retailers, and mainstream brands are often featured here on our little blog. However, today we’d like to focus on the independent designers who are trying to build a label and succeed (often with little corporate backing but immense talent) in New York City.
First up, we visited the Garment Center installation featuring a collective of emerging NYC designers. The show was called, Made in NYC: Past, Present, and Future. The lines of three local designers, Francoise Olivas, Gina De Silva, and Eva Khurshid (designs pictured in order above), all not only run their business from here, but pledged to continue producing their lines in the Garment Center. We only wish we had been able to spend more time here but we were very impressed with the message, as well as, the pieces. It was sad to see how tight the budget clearly was for this event and for designers in general in this city. The show was rightfully held in an old factory loft in our neighborhood, with Anna Sui and Nanette Lepore donating display pieces. Still it was evident that they unfortunately did not receive the big corporate sponsors they really do deserve. Launching, running, and producing a clothing line in this city is no longer easily accessible, and bravo to these designers for doing it. Additionally we must mention that at the event, they screened a part of the new HBO documentary, SCHMATTA:Rags to Riches to Rags, which is a fascinating look at the history of manufacturing in the Garment Center. Check out the teaser for the movie…
We were also honored to be invited to a private studio showing of Christian Francis Roth’s new collection, for his francis line. Christian (pictured below playing with some new fabric) is another talented and innovative New York based designer whose studio is located in the heart of the Garment Center. For you young-ins who may not remember, Christian was a huge star on the fashion scene in the 1990’s, and while in his early twenties he won the coveted CFDA “Perry Ellis Award for New Talent.” Many of his pieces are considered classics and are on display at the Met’s Costume Institute. Now he is back with his new eclectic and whimsical line, francis.
As we all too well know, in this industry, success is measured season by season, which makes it exceptionally hard for independent designers to compete. In this market, many of us have faced downsizing, company bankruptcies, cancelled lines and the outlook can feel bleak. However, Christian’s new line was a welcome reminder that as times change, new and often better opportunities can arise. Often we learn and cut our teeth in the early years of our careers and come back smarter and wiser. Take a look at the francis line here and I think you’ll agree that Christian has really hit on something wonderful.
Check out the images of Christian’s studio below and you will see a far different experience than many of us have in the corporate world of fashion. No cavernous showrooms, suited sales teams, beige conference rooms or monotonous cubicles here. Yet, familiarly there are body forms in place, walls labeled with mood board themes for the collection, and sketches posted about. There were also packages for China prepared, which makes Christian the perfect example of how many local designers find the expense to produce domestically too high for them to stay profitable. This situation is another reason to help support efforts being made to Save the Garment Center and make manufacturing affordable for our independent designers. And of course despite the fact that it was 8′oclock in the evening, no one blinked that people were still working on finishing product. For those of us who work in fashion, we know a 9-5 day is a fallacy.
Not only was meeting Christian and seeing his line a privilege but so was meeting up with several fabulous bloggers who we’ve been dying to meet like Midtown Girl, Jessica from What I Wore, and Alixrose. So thank you to the lovely Wendy Brandes for setting up this event and making sure champagne flowed, as we all enjoyed the company. After a scrumptious meal, (sans Christian who of course was working away) we got to spend some time with Jennine of The Coveted, Jordana of Clutch 22 (pictured below with Wendy trying on a stunning plaid francis frock), the Fasshonaburu ladies and more. For more on this event check out the francis blog, which Wendy B is so kind to run as well
Here is more related scoop;
Topics: designers, new york | 10 Comments » 
Email This Post
September 18th, 2009 at 3:37 pm
I was SO glad you could come. And totally agree, of course, that it would be great to be able to produce things locally and still have a financially successful business (speaking from my own jeweler’s perspective there, not a clothing designer’s).
September 18th, 2009 at 4:56 pm
Really do believe that good independent designers deserve more support! I am in awe of the Francis line, and Gine de Silva’s work looks stunning. Hope you’re having a wonderful day :)
September 18th, 2009 at 7:19 pm
Great feature, it’s important to talk about the up and comers and you are on the pulse.
September 19th, 2009 at 10:10 am
Great post ladies! and shana tova everyone!
September 19th, 2009 at 7:45 pm
Awesome that you guys featured the indy upstarts…they so deserve their props.
September 20th, 2009 at 5:41 pm
as a student at parsons and someone who’s working on her senior thesis, i think it’s really sad what’s happening at the garment district too. there are things that i want to do for my collection that i’m trying to source here, and it’s impossible. i either can’t find the right suppliers or the people who do those treatments, and if i do, they are at abominable prices which i certainly cannot afford. but i can’t blame those people, because they are probably the only ones left doing the job and also have to deal with the economy and crazy rents.
so many people are out-sourcing to china now, but it’s something i really don’t want to ever do unless i get big enough (yeah right! haha) to hve my own factory where i can watch with some hawk’s eye. i’ve dealt with factories there before, and i can never trust them to get the job done right.
hopefully, the city will do something to save this industry. it will be really sad to see it completely disappear. and someone, please save the millinery supply stores!!!
September 21st, 2009 at 2:19 pm
Just being a fashion observer, not an insider, I found these designers to be inspiring.
September 22nd, 2009 at 2:41 pm
I’m always proud when I interview a designer and they say that they keep their production here in NYC. It makes a difference when you know that they keep it local.
September 25th, 2009 at 12:52 am
It was awesome meeting you as well!
I have to tell you that this post is very important & very well written. Hopefully it will help others understand how vital it is to the industry (& the country) that we keep production here.
I LOVE the Francis ‘behind the scenes’.
…Lunch soon, ok?
XOXO Amy
December 24th, 2011 at 10:17 am
Pruitt Bret: Now please let me introduce you a great site: spreadlinks.info